Climbing in Pembroke

For the third time I've just come back from a weekend in Pembroke, South Wales.

That's South Wales in mid-October and prior to what is supposedly going to be a shit Winter (well not shit if you're a keen ice climber). Despite all this I was climbing in shorts and tshirt. In the words of Peter Griffin un-freaking-believable!

We arrived fairly late on Friday due to bad traffic and decided that perhaps we should sort out the food stuffs for the next day rather than climbing as we thought it'd get dark.
By 6pm we were back at the campsite with no sign of the people we were staying with. A quick decision later and we decided to have a punt a quick climb on the nearest crag, Stennis Head.
Rocked up around 6.30 to the climb, geared up real quick and climbed with the sunset just finishing behind us! What a great start to the weekend, atmospheric and incredibly peaceful.

Saturday started reasonably early (considering I'm not at work) and a visit to Saddle Head (just round the corner from Stennis Head). Rather than abseil we chose the scramble round to the platform so we could warm up and get started.
First route was Sea Mist (a HS classic), although I've done it before my opinion was not very high. This time it was great, the sun and a little breeze made the climb refreshing and a nice start. The traverse was interesting as I started too high and almost slipped but recovered and powered though the moves.
Once that climb was finished an ab rope had appeared, courtesy of some friends, which gave much quicker access to the platform.
The second lead was Pink 'Un (VS 4c I think), an interesting corner that was hard work in places but with an easy finish. I'd previously completed this route in walking boots (seconding not leading) and found it hard work. Rock boots made short work of it though!
Arguably the  highlight of the day was going to Huntsman's Leap, a interesting effect of coastal erosion has given an incredible area from which one abseils in and climbs out!
Long time climber Dan took us down and agreed to lead an E2 (E is NOT for Easy :-P) seconding was hard and I did rest but hugely rewarding pulling through the two roofs that make up "Beast from the Undergrowth", great holds, great gear and a bit of a shit top!

Sunday was a relatively chilled day with only two climbs being completed at Mother Carey's Kitchen.
We (that's myself, Dan and Olly) rocked up hoping to ab down to one of the best E1's in the country (apparently), Rock Idol. Well the first abseil wasn't long enough to reach the platform, the second was in the wrong place and it was impossible to swing in. So we tried again to find an alternative route down, there was nothing that looked pleasant. Feeling down heartened and wishing only to get one climb in we decided to try a VS round the corner.
Ab was setup and down I went. As I got down there the tide was at its lowest. A quick peek around the corner confirmed that we would be able to scramble around, the E1 was back on!
Quick re-rack and Dan set off, big holds and good gear meant he soon was around the first roof and at the second. A slight miscalculation meant Dan went the wrong way but that was soon corrected and done right (or left as was the case). Olly seconded first and completed the route with only one rest.
I started out with some nerves considering any tug from above would result in me being pulled off the rock...eep. Still I finished it and decided right then that one day (hopefully in a years time) I would lead what is apparently the greatest E1!

All in all it was a fantastic weekend that the weather held out for. Climbing in shorts and tshirt, in South Wales alone is enough to make it a good weekend. Given the fact that it is also October made it into something to remember.

I hope to have another outing soon and use it to break up the groups of posts about computers or technology!
I'll try and edit this post later with some photos, topos and route info.